So, finally the keyboard arrived in DAR this past Saturday!! But, we were unable to pick it up (because it was my birthday and Saturday is not a working day). The first plan was to leave for DAR on Monday, but there was a chance that we could get a tax-exemption form because the keyboard was a donation. Well, true to Tanzania style, we were unable to get the tax-exemption form and it could take weeks or months to get it. Thus, Baba Sesi (my Kiswahili tutor) and I headed out at 6am on Tuesday for DAR to retrieve the keyboard. I slept and read during the 3 hour bus ride to DAR that didn't end up leaving until around 7am (once the bust was full). Once in DAR, we hopped on the daladala to the airport which took another hour or so. At the airport we were re-directed to the cargo area which was a ways away, so we took a cab.
The first thing we were told in the cargo area was that we would not be able to pick up the keyboard on our own; we would have to have an agent guide us through the process. The process is VERY long and drawn out. We were continually directed to another area, another building, another person. Pay this fee for handling, pay this secretarial fee, get a tax quote, and on and on. Not long after our arrival, the offices were shut down for 2 hours for lunch. I'm not sure who needs 2 hours for lunch, but we ended up sitting around at what I will call the "food court". This was pretty much a shack where a couple of people were cooking with an small "indoor" area. There was also beverage area where you could get whatever kind of soft drink or water you wanted. There Baba Sesi and I waited until 2pm, splitting a plate of food (and I ate the snacks I had brought) when we were summoned by our agents to continue the process. Up until that point, everything had gone relatively smoothly and I had no complaints. The big problem occurred when we were told that we needed to pay 50,000 Tsh to "the company". At first, Baba Sesi tried to handle the situation, but it was just a big argument and nothing was getting done, so I decided that I would try and step in and see if we could get anything done. I asked over and over what the fee was for and all they would say was that it was for "the company", but they offered no bill or proof of what the money was for. Up until this point we had already been told to pay a rather significant amount of money, but each time it came with a piece of paper that at least showed proof that that was what we were supposed to be charged. I was worried that this 50,000 Tsh was some kind of con because I was a white woman and they were trying to get money out of me. I know that it sounds a bit ridiculous, but it happens all the time here. I prefer to shop at the supermarkets because they put price stickers on the items and I know that I won't be overcharged for my items. Once people here see a white person, they think of it as an opportunity to get a little extra money. I don't think that it's intended to be mean, but people here are so poor and desperate that they will take advantage of every opportunity they see to get ahead.
But, this was the church's money and I was not about to let them take advantage of us. I was also getting worried because our supply was getting low and we still hadn't paid the government tax which was estimated at $100 (150,000 Tsh). I told them that up until that point we had been given papers as proof that we had to pay different fees and I would not hand over any money until I was given proof of what this fee was for. It took a long time and a lot of arguing, but I flat out refused until I had proof that this was not some kind of trick. Eventually, our agent found a man who showed us what the fee was for, some kind of secretarial work that had to be typed and printed off. I still felt like that was a high fee for such a task, but we had spent so much time arguing and time was running out. So, I relented and we proceeded to the secretary's office where the computers were having problems (not an uncommon situation here where the power can go off unexpectedly at any point in time). Because of the computer problems, we ran out of time and the cargo area was shut down for the evening. Thus, Baba Sesi and I were forced to spend the night in DAR.
Luckily for me, Kim and Emily and warned me that the trip would probably take more than a day and that I should take an extra change of clothes just in case. I cannot even begin to describe how grateful I am to them for their suggestion. I had brought a shirt and running shorts to sleep in, and extra set of under wear, and another top to go with the skirt that I wore to DAR. I also brought some travel sized bottle of shampoo, conditioner, contact solution, toothpaste, etc. I was SO happy that I was prepared!! We were able easily acquire accommodations because the Bishop lives in DAR. So, we hopped on the daladala which took 1 1/2 hours to get to the Sinza area where he lives because of the traffic. The Bishop and his wife were wonderful hosts who made sure that we were well fed and that we had everything that we needed (including hot water for my shower!!!!).
While we were there, the Bishop told us all about the beginnings of the United Methodist Church here in Tanzania. The church was started by 6 families who were sent from the Congo (where the church had a strong foundation because so many foreign missionaries had gone there previously). The families were all sent to different areas of Tanzania and were told to "build the church". The bishop, his wife, and 4 children were pretty much dropped off at an empty house with no food where they slept that night on the floor with no food. The next day he went out to find someone who could help them, but he didn't even know Kiswahili because they don't speak Kiswahili in the Congo. I feel like that must have been quite a scary situation for them. At least when I arrived, the church and the school were already started and there were people here to welcome me. I have a furnished room (no matter how sparsely furnished it is), I have running water, food, and a generous family who makes sure that I am safe no matter where I am going. And, even though I don't know the language, I have people here who are willing to help me. I feel very fortunate that even though I have very little, I really do have a lot. And, as hard as it can be sometimes, it could always be worse.
Well, Wednesday, I got to sleep in, just a bit, and eat a leisurely breakfast before we headed back out to the airport. We arrived around 9:30am and met with our agents. Right off the bat, we were told that we would have to pay a storage fee because the keyboard had to be stored overnight. I was about to put up a fuss over this because it wasn't our fault the keyboard had to stay, but there was no one in charge to talk to. There are not customer service desks here and everything is through the agents. Baba Sesi told me to just go ahead and pay the fee. The agents took a long time to sort through things; and not just 1-2 hours, we're talking until 1:30pm. I'm not sure what took so long, they wouldn't give us a straight answer, but I was beginning to worry that we were going to have to spend a second night in DAR. One good thing about all the extra time was that I got a LOT of grading done! I had given all of my classes tests the previous week and hadn't finished grading them over the weekend because of my birthday. I was half-way through the last class when the keyboard was finally released to us. Bwana Asifiwe!! We loaded it up onto a truck that would drive us to the bus stand and paid our agents their "agent fee". Apparently, the agents can charge whatever they want to as their agent fee. I guess as soon as they saw me, the decided that I would be an easy target and wanted to charge 150,000 Tsh (about $100 US) which is pretty much a small fortune here. Well, Baba Sesi had talked them down to 50,000 Tsh the previous day, but after all the other fees and such that we had to pay, there was only 40,000 Tsh left to give them and still have enough money to get home.
Finding a bus to take us and the keyboard back was a whole other adventure. We didn't have so much money left after paying the truck driver for driving us there, so Baba Sesi had to bargain down a price for us. Here, nothing is set in stone. People can charge whatever they want to whoever they want. There are "standard" prices which are generally charged, but people make it up based on who the customer is. So, of course, when they see a white woman with a large package, they don't want to bring the price down. But, we managed to get a good fare and had to wait until the bus filled up before we could leave. Baba Sesi stayed outside until the bus was about to leave to make sure that no one took the keyboard out of the cargo portion of the bus. I was 3pm by the time the bus was about to leave and I was SOOO hungry (we're talking the light-headed, about to pass out kind of hungry). I hadn't eaten anything since 7am!! I think sometimes that people here forget that Americans eat more frequently than Tanzanians which can be a really bad thing. Baba Sesi tells me all the time how all he has to do is drink a cup of chai for breakfast, eat a piece of bread and he's good to go until dinner. I just can't even understand it and sometimes I feel like people judge me because I eat so much food. I try to wait it out as long as I can and I don't think I've complained yet, but sometimes it's really hard for me, especially when I get to the point where I'm feeling light-headed (which happens frequently). I try to bring snacks places and I always make sure I have snacks in my room, but I had already eaten my snacks the previous day. Luckily, we were able to buy some "cakes" as they call them from a street vendor who had come on the bus and I downed them like nobody's business.
The ride home was uneventful, thank goodness, and I was very ready to be back in Morogoro. DAR is much hotter and much more humid. Also, it's a big city with SOOO many people and it takes FOREVER to get places. I was ready to be back in the relative simplicity and the familiarity of Morogoro. Back at the house, we tore open the package like it was Christmas and plugged the keyboard in. But, we forgot about the voltage difference and I was horrified when the keyboard suddenly shut off. I was exhausted from traveling and dealing with all of the stress of obtaining the keyboard. I thought that this was the end, we had gone through all that trouble and spent all that money for nothing. Luckily, the keyboard can also run off of batteries and we were able to get some batteries and turn it back on. Bwana Asifiwe!!
I was so anxious to play the keyboard, but so was everyone else. I got pushed to the side and my ears were assaulted with every music teacher's worst nightmare: drum tracks, mixed with high pitched electronic keyboard sounds (meaning not the standard grand piano sound), bad chords, and failed attempts to play (or write) a tune. It took a lot of effort on my part, but I just had to remind myself that this is like a new toy. Everyone wants to figure out how it works and what it can do. I just had to wait until everyone else went home before I would get a chance to play some hymns, or something, CORRECTLY on the keyboard.
So far, the keyboard has been a WONDERFUL addition to life here. I sorted through the sheet music and picked out all of the elementary music so I can begin offering private lessons. I've decided that since school gets out early on Fridays, that would be a good time to teach students piano. I can't teach everyone, so I've been paying attention to which students have shown particular interest and aptitude in music. Those are the ones that I will ask first if they would like to learn. We'll see what happens with it all. I'm also planning to use the keyboard for the English choir since we are singing hymns out of a hymnal and it's easy to accompany.
Well, that's all of my adventures for now!! I hope you're having a blessed weekend so far!!
"Therefore we do not lose heart. Though outwardly we are wasting away, yet inwardly we are being renewed day by day. For our light and momentary troubles are achieving for us an eternal glory that far outweighs them all. So we fix our eyes not on what is seen, but what is unseen. For what is seen is temporary, but what is unseen is eternal." 2 Corinthians 4:16-18
May the Lord Bless You and Keep You,
~Christine
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